Gundagai, New South WaleS · ESt. 1902

120 Years of Australian History.

From a Kytherian refreshment room to a National Trust icon — the unbroken story of 142 Sheridan Street.

Discover

1902

Year Founded

120+

Years of History

3

Family Eras

1

Unbroken Legacy

CHAPTER ONE

1902 – 1915

The Founding Era
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1902 — THE BEGINNING

In 1902, Kytherian immigrant Strati Notaras opened Stratee Notari's Refreshment Rooms in Gundagai, welcoming locals and travellers passing through town.

His story was part of a much larger wave of migration from the small Greek island of Kythera, whose people would have a remarkable influence on Australia's café culture. While little is known about Strati himself, the refreshment rooms he established marked the beginning of the Niagara's story.

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1907 — WHAT'S ON THE MENU?

Published in The Gundagai Independent in November 1907, this advertisement offers one of the earliest glimpses into Stratee Notari's Refreshment Rooms. The menu featured hot pies, fish, saveloys, ham, bacon and eggs, fresh and stewed oysters, sweets, along with tea, coffee and cocoa.

There were signs of a more refined offering, too. Hot pies arrived daily from Sydney’s A.B.C. Café, while serving fresh oysters in an inland town hundreds of kilometres from the coast was no small thing. Together, they give us a glimpse of the quality and variety Strati was offering his customers in 1907.

CHAPTER TWO

1916 – 1983

THE CASTRISSION ERA
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1916 — THE CASTRISSIONS TAKE OVER

In 1916, after fourteen years at the helm, Strati Notaras sold his refreshment rooms to fellow Kytherians Jim (Dimitri) Castrission and his uncle Vic Castrission Snr.

Later family records identify Jim and Vic Snr as the new owners, while a contemporary advertisement published in the Gundagai Independent that July announced that “Jak Castrission & Co.” had purchased Strati Notari’s “old-established and well-conducted Refreshment Rooms”.

The change marked the beginning of the Castrission family’s long association with the business.

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EARLY 1920S — JACK AND VIC ARRIVE IN GUNDAGAI

In the early 1920s, teenage brothers Jack and Vic Castrission made the journey from Kythera to Gundagai, joining their older brother Jim and uncle Vic Snr in the family café.

The brothers worked seven days a week, before and after school, while learning to speak English and finding their place in a new country. Neither could have known then that the Niagara would remain at the centre of their lives for more than 60 years, making Jack and Vic the longest-serving owners in the café’s history.

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1923 — CASTRISSION’S MARBLE BAR

By 1923, newspaper advertisements were referring to the business as Castrission’s Marble Bar, offering customers “the best drinks and confectionery”.

The name reflected the changing style of Australian café culture, as marble bars, cool drinks, confectionery and refreshments became increasingly popular. In Gundagai, the advertisement gives us another glimpse of how the Castrission family’s business was developing during the early 1920s.

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1928 — THE NIAGARA NAME APPEARS

By 1928, newspaper advertisements were referring to the Castrission family’s business as the Niagara Café.

While the exact date the name was adopted remains unclear, 1928 is the earliest reference uncovered so far. A decade later, on 15 July 1938, “NIAGARA CAFE” was formally registered under the NSW Business Names Act 1934.

The original certificate of registration has survived among the Niagara’s archival collection, providing an official record of the café’s name and a tangible link to this period in its history. Dated 15 July 1938, it is one of the surviving pieces of early paperwork bearing the Niagara Café name.

1940s
1938 — AUSTRALIA’S WONDER CAFÉ

In 1938, the Castrission family unveiled a dramatic new look for the Niagara, transforming it into one of the most striking hospitality spaces in regional New South Wales.

The redesign brought together curved windows, chrome, neon lighting, a fluted soda fountain, mirrored finishes and a bold black, silver and jade colour scheme. Overhead, a domed ceiling painted with the Southern Cross added one of the café’s most memorable features.

When the doors reopened in October, the transformation was so impressive that the local press called it “Australia’s Wonder Café”.

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1942 — A KNOCK AT MIDNIGHT: JOHN CURTIN VISITS THE NIAGARA

On a cold night in August 1942, Jack and Vic Castrission were closing the Niagara when a knock came at the door. Standing outside was Prime Minister John Curtin, accompanied by members of his cabinet and looking for a meal while travelling through Gundagai.

The brothers welcomed them inside, reopened the kitchen and served the group steak and eggs. It was a simple act of country hospitality during one of the most difficult periods in Australia’s wartime history — and became one of the Niagara’s most memorable stories.

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c. 1949 — JACK CASTRISSION AND THE FAMOUS FAÇADE

A photograph from around 1949 captures Jack Castrission standing outside the Niagara in front of the Art Deco façade — the cream tiles, the chrome lettering, and the neon sign all visible. The image documents the building in its postwar prime and shows the next generation of the Castrission family taking their place beside the institution that bears their name.

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1969 — FIFTY YEARS OF THE NIAGARA

In 1969, Jack and Vic Castrission celebrated the Golden Jubilee of the Niagara Café, marking an important milestone in the family's long association with the business.

By then, the two brothers had spent most of their lives in Gundagai. What had begun as work in the family café when they arrived as teenagers had grown into decades behind the counter and deep connections with the town they now called home.

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1975 — THE FIRE

Three days before Christmas in 1975, disaster struck the Niagara Café when a fire tore through the building, leaving it badly damaged.

For Jack and Vic Castrission, who had spent much of their lives behind the counter, the fire threatened the family business and the distinctive Art Deco café that had stood since the 1938 transformation. Among the losses was one of the Niagara’s most memorable features — the domed ceiling painted with stars and the Southern Cross.

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1978 — THE DOORS OPEN AGAIN

After the devastation of the 1975 fire, the Niagara Café was repaired and reopened in 1978.

Jack and Vic Castrission, by then well into their later years, returned to the business and once again welcomed customers through the doors. The reopening marked the return of a familiar Gundagai landmark after several years of uncertainty, with the Castrission brothers continuing the family’s place behind the counter.

CHAPTER THREE

1983 – 2021

THE LOUKISSAS ERA
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1983 — THE LOUKISSAS FAMILY TAKES OVER

In 1983, Jack and Vic Castrission sold the Niagara Café to Nick and Denise Loukissas, bringing more than six decades of Castrission family ownership to a close.

Nick and his wife Denise, together with their children Tony and Tina, became the next family behind the Niagara. Like the families before them, the Loukissas family was of Greek heritage, continuing the café’s long connection with Greek-Australian ownership.

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1992 — JOHN CURTIN REMEMBERED

On 12 August 1992, fifty years after Prime Minister John Curtin’s wartime visit, more than 100 people gathered at the Niagara for a special anniversary dinner.

Deputy Prime Minister Brian Howe travelled to Gundagai for the occasion, which also attracted newspapers, radio stations and television crews. Jack and Vic Castrission were there to recount the story of that cold August night in 1942, when they opened the café after midnight and served Australia’s wartime Prime Minister.

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2001 — GOUGH WHITLAM VISITS THE NIAGARA

In May 2001, former Prime Minister Gough Whitlam and his wife Margaret stopped at the Niagara Café while returning to Sydney from Federation Centenary celebrations in Melbourne.

During the visit, owner Nick Loukissas took the couple into the kitchen, where they were photographed beside the bench where John Curtin’s late-night meal had been prepared in 1942. The Gundagai Independent reported on the occasion, describing Whitlam as “the latest in a long line of political figures to eat at the Niagara”.

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2002 — LIFE AT THE NIAGARA

In 2002, Tina Loukissas reflected on life at the Niagara, recalling the jukebox, spiders, milkshakes and the American influence that had long shaped the café.

By then, the Loukissas family had been behind the counter for almost two decades. Tina’s memories offer a glimpse into the character of the Niagara and the family who had made it part of their lives.

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2019 — THE NIAGARA GOES UP FOR SALE.

After 36 years behind the Niagara, the Loukissas family made the difficult decision to put the café on the market in 2019.

For Tina Loukissas, who had grown up around the café after her parents took over in 1983, the decision was an emotional one. After more than a century of Greek Australian family ownership, finding the right person to take on the Niagara mattered.

CHAPTER FOUR

2021 – 2023

CONTINUING THE STORY
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2021 — NEW CUSTODIANS

After sitting on the market for around 18 months, the Niagara Café changed hands in March 2021.

The new owners had known the Niagara for decades from their travels between Sydney and Melbourne. When the opportunity arose to take it on themselves, they were drawn to the rarity of the café and the chance to preserve an important piece of Australian history.

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2022 — RESTORING THE NIAGARA

After taking ownership of the Niagara, the new owners began the painstaking task of restoring the historic café.

Much of the original 1938 fit-out had survived, including the booths, counter and joinery, but decades of use, fire and water damage had taken their toll. Working with specialist trades, they set out to preserve what remained, recreate what had been lost and return the Niagara’s distinctive Art Deco character.

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2022 — THE NIAGARA REOPENS

In June 2022, the doors of the Niagara Café opened once again following an extensive restoration, marking the beginning of a new chapter for the historic Gundagai café.

The reopening began with a soft launch in early June, initially serving coffee and sweets. For the first time in years, locals and travellers were once again able to step inside and experience the Niagara as a working café.

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2023 — NATIONAL RECOGNITION

In May 2023, the restoration of the Niagara Café received the President’s Prize at the National Trust (NSW) Heritage Awards, one of the event’s special honours. The project was also Highly Commended in the Conservation – Built Heritage category.

The award recognised the care taken to preserve the Niagara’s original 1938 Art Deco character while returning the historic café to everyday use. For It also acknowledged the local tradespeople and supporters who helped bring the restoration to life through the challenges of the COVID years.

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1902 — THE BEGINNING

The story of the Niagara Café doesn’t begin on Sheridan Street, or even in Australia. It begins thousands of kilometres away on the small Greek island of Kythera.

Situated between the Peloponnese and Crete, Kythera was a close-knit island community with a long maritime history. By the late nineteenth century, life on the island could be difficult. Work was limited, and economic hardship encouraged many young men to look beyond its shores for opportunity.

For some, that journey led all the way to Australia.

Kytherians had begun arriving in Australia during the nineteenth century, and those who established themselves often helped others follow. Brothers, cousins, friends and neighbours travelled along the same routes, finding work through people they knew and creating a network that stretched from the cities into regional towns.

Hospitality became an important part of that story. Many new arrivals worked in oyster saloons, refreshment rooms and small eating houses, learning the trade before establishing businesses of their own. These were not Greek restaurants as we might think of them today. They catered to Australian tastes and became places where people could eat, meet and take a break from the road.

One of the Kytherians who made that journey was Strati Notaras.

We know surprisingly little about Strati himself. The historical record tells us where he came from and the business he established, but much of the man behind it has disappeared with time. We don’t know what brought him specifically to Gundagai, what his journey to Australia was like, or why he decided this particular country town was where he would build his new life.

What we do know is that in 1902 he opened Stratee Notari’s Refreshment Rooms in Gundagai.

At the time, Gundagai was a busy regional centre and a natural stopping place for travellers making their way between Sydney and Melbourne. The railway had connected the town to the wider region, while coaches, drays and the earliest motorcars brought a steady flow of people through its streets. A refreshment room offered somewhere to stop, eat and rest before continuing the journey.

Strati had found his place within it.

Like so many immigrant stories from this period, many of the everyday details of his life have been lost to time. Newspapers preserved advertisements and occasional mentions of his business but tell us little about the long hours behind the counter, the people he came to know or what it was like to create a home and livelihood thousands of kilometres from Kythera.

More than a century later, those unanswered questions are part of Strati’s story too. We may know little about the man himself, but we know that in 1902, in a country town far from the island where his journey began, he opened the doors of a small refreshment room and began serving the people of Gundagai.

In the early 1920s, two more members of the Castrission family made the long journey from the Greek island of Kythera to Australia. Jack and Vic Castrission were still in their early teens when they arrived, joining their older brother Jim and their uncle Vic Snr in Gundagai and becoming part of the family café business.

Their arrival meant adapting quickly to a very different life. Jack and Vic attended school while also working in the café seven days a week, both before and after classes. At the same time, they were learning to speak English and finding their place in a country far removed from the island where they had grown up. The combination of school and long hours behind the counter made for demanding early years.

The café provided the brothers with something familiar amongst all that change. Jim and Vic Snr were already established in Gundagai, giving Jack and Vic both family around them and a ready-made place within the business.

Life behind the counter also brought them into daily contact with Gundagai. Country cafés operated long hours, serving local residents as well as travellers passing through town. For two young migrants, it was a place to learn the rhythms of their new community, meet its people and gradually become part of everyday life in Gundagai.

Photographs and family records preserve glimpses of the brothers during these years and their growing connection with the town. Their story reflects the experience of many young Kytherian migrants who travelled enormous distances to join relatives already established in Australia, then built new lives through family businesses in regional communities.

The transformation of the Niagara in 1938 was dramatic. After more than two decades in business, the Castrission family undertook a major remodelling that turned the café into one of the most striking establishments on the Hume Highway.

The new design embraced the modern styles of the period. Black, silver and jade finishes were combined with curved glass, mirrored surfaces, fluted metalwork, concealed lighting and neon. A large domed ceiling became one of the defining features of the interior, while the booths, counter and detailed joinery helped create the distinctive character that would become synonymous with the Niagara.

Neon was also becoming an important part of the café’s identity. In September 1936, the Castrission brothers had received permission from Gundagai Shire Council to erect a neon sign at the Niagara. The approval came with requirements from the Main Roads Department that neon signs along the Hume Highway be positioned so they did not protrude over the carriageway.

By the end of the decade, the Niagara’s large vertical neon sign had become part of its distinctive Sheridan Street frontage. Surviving paperwork from 1950 provides a glimpse into its later upkeep, describing an existing V-shaped, double-sided outdoor sign bearing the words “CAFE” and “NIAGARA”, with work to its coloured neon tubing.

The transformation attracted considerable attention. Contemporary reports described the Niagara as modern and sophisticated, with its striking new appearance standing out in a country town. It was promoted as “Australia’s Wonder Café”, a name that captured the confidence and ambition behind the redesign.

But the changes were about more than appearance. The Niagara sat directly on what was then the Hume Highway, placing it on one of the country’s major routes between Sydney and Melbourne. Its modern surroundings, meals, refreshments and long opening hours made it a natural stopping point for locals and travellers alike.

The 1938 transformation established much of the character for which the Niagara would become known. Remarkably, many elements of that period survived the decades that followed, leaving Gundagai with an increasingly rare example of Australia’s Greek café era.

It was a cold August night in 1942, and Australia was deep in the Second World War. Singapore had fallen earlier that year, Darwin had been bombed, and the war in the Pacific had brought the conflict frighteningly close to home.

At the Niagara Café in Gundagai, Jack and Vic Castrission were preparing to close after another long day when there was a knock at the door.

Standing outside was Prime Minister John Curtin, accompanied by members of his political party. Travelling through Gundagai, the group was looking for somewhere to eat. Rather than turn them away, Jack and Vic welcomed them inside, reopened the kitchen and prepared a meal of steak and eggs.

Among the group were Treasurer Ben Chifley, former Prime Minister Arthur Fadden and Senator Neil O’Sullivan.

As the men ate, conversation turned to the war and the shortages affecting everyday life across Australia. Tea was rationed, and Jack raised a problem the Niagara was facing: its monthly allowance of 28 lb — around 12.7 kg — simply wasn’t enough to meet the demands of a busy café.

O’Sullivan, who was responsible for rationing, took note. The Niagara’s monthly tea allowance was subsequently increased to 100 lb — around 45 kg — a considerable difference for the business and something Jack and Vic later remembered as “a big help”.

In the middle of a world at war, it was a remarkably simple encounter: a group of weary travellers looking for a meal, two brothers willing to open their kitchen, and a late-night act of hospitality that became part of Gundagai history.

By 1969, the Niagara had been part of Jack and Vic Castrission’s lives for almost half a century.

The brothers had arrived in Gundagai from Kythera as teenagers in the early 1920s, joining their older brother Jim and uncle Vic Snr in the family café. They attended school, learnt English and worked before and after classes, beginning a connection with the Niagara that would span much of their lives.

Their path wasn’t entirely straightforward. During the Depression, Jack and Vic left Gundagai to seek work in Canberra and Goulburn. In 1934 they returned to the Niagara partnership with Jim and Vic Snr, and four years later were part of the café’s dramatic 1938 transformation.

Over the years, Gundagai became home. Jack married local woman Joyce Fox, while Vic married Eva May Tozer, and between the two families they raised ten children. While Jim, Con, Chris and Vic Snr eventually settled in Sydney after the Second World War, Jack and Vic remained in Gundagai.

Their lives also extended well beyond the café. Vic was involved with Gundagai Rugby League and the Golf Club, while Jack was involved with Rotary, caravan parks and the Shire Council. Both became part of the wider community in the town where they had arrived as young migrants decades earlier.

In 1969, Jack and Vic celebrated the Niagara’s Golden Jubilee — a milestone in a story that had become inseparable from their own lives in Gundagai.

By 2002, the Loukissas family had been part of the Niagara for almost two decades. Tina Loukissas had grown up around the café after her parents, Nick and Denise, took over the business in 1983, and many of her memories were tied to life behind its doors.

Tina remembered the Niagara as having a distinctly American feel. The jukebox, milkshakes and café culture all contributed to its character, something she reflected on at the time: “The café’s been here since 1902 and I guess that the American influence has always dominated.”

But behind the familiar Art Deco interior was very much a family business. Denise and Tony were at the heart of its day-to-day operation, working long hours to keep the café running. Tony could usually be found in the kitchen, where his Gundagai pies, fried chicken and fresh fish became familiar favourites.

Denise worked across both the kitchen and front of house, serving customers and helping wherever she was needed. Tina remembers her as constantly on the go, putting an enormous amount of time and energy into the café.

Nick brought something different to the Niagara. He seemed to know everyone and was always ready for a conversation, a story or a laugh, whether he was talking with a regular or someone walking through the doors for the first time.

Tina also worked in the café throughout her life, while Tony’s place was predominantly in the kitchen. Together, the family each played their part in a business that demanded long hours and hard work, but also created lasting relationships with generations of customers.

Looking back on those years, Tina remembers the Niagara as more than simply the family business. It was a place shaped by hard work, family, friendship and community — and one that became an important part of their lives as well as the lives of many who passed through its doors.

In 2019, the Niagara Café was placed on the market, bringing the future of one of Gundagai’s best-known businesses into the national spotlight.

By then, the Loukissas family had spent 36 years running the Niagara. Nick had passed away, Denise was in poor health and looking to retire, and Tony had also become ill. Tina was balancing the demands of the café with raising her own family. Together, these circumstances led the family to make the difficult decision to sell. (commercialrealestate.com.au)

After so many years in the family, the Niagara had become much more than a business. Tina spoke of the relationships formed with generations of customers and the familiar faces who returned to the café year after year. Letting it go meant stepping away from a place that had been part of her life since childhood.

The announcement attracted attention well beyond Gundagai. The Niagara’s long history, Art Deco interior and connection to Greek Australian café culture saw the sale covered nationally, including an interview with Tina on ABC Radio National. (abc.net.au)

For Tina, finding the right buyer mattered. She hoped whoever eventually took over would recognise what they were inheriting and preserve the history and character that made the Niagara distinctive.

For only the second time in more than a century, the Niagara was on the market.

For around 30 years, the new owners had known the Niagara from travelling between Sydney and Melbourne. In later years they stopped more regularly, admiring how much of its original character and fit-out had survived. When the Niagara appeared on the market, the possibility of taking it on themselves began to take hold.

The café had been on the market for around 18 months when it was purchased from the Loukissas family in March 2021.

Neither came to the Niagara as experienced café operators. They had previously undertaken several residential renovation projects, including a mid-century home and a warehouse conversion. What attracted them most was the opportunity to restore the building and preserve something they recognised as increasingly rare.

There was also a broader ambition behind taking it on. The Niagara had long been a gathering place in Gundagai, hosting everyday meals as well as birthdays, wedding breakfasts and First Communion breakfasts. They wanted it to become a community hub again — somewhere for locals as well as travellers passing through town.

Their purchase in March 2021 placed the Niagara in new hands for the first time in almost four decades, beginning a new chapter for a café its new owners had admired for years.

When the Niagara changed hands in 2021, its new custodians inherited an unusually intact example of the Greek cafés that had once been found in towns across Australia. Much of its celebrated 1938 fit-out remained, but bringing the building back to its former character would require far more than a simple renovation.

The original booths, main counter and joinery were among the features that could be saved. After more than 80 years, however, many were showing their age. Architect Graeme Bell of Trace Architects, builder Eliot Bale of Jigsaw Constructions and Mike Mayhew of Swagman Joinery worked to restore the surviving fabric and recreate missing elements.

One of the largest projects was overhead. The Niagara’s domed ceiling had been lost following the 1975 fire, with a lower ceiling later installed in its place. During the restoration, the dome was recreated, returning one of the most distinctive elements of the café’s earlier design.

Other major projects included restoring the main counter mirrors and the iconic rooftop Niagara sign. The original booths were retained and repaired, while the surviving joinery and counter were carefully preserved. Wherever possible, the aim was to work with what remained rather than replace it.

The work also had to accommodate the practical requirements of a contemporary café. A completely new commercial kitchen was installed, along with updated bathroom facilities, a new coffee area and modern lighting. These additions were designed to sit alongside the historic interior without overwhelming it.

For the new owners, the approach was straightforward: if they were going to restore the Niagara, they wanted to do it properly. The project required around a year of work, with careful decisions made about what could be saved, what needed restoring and what had to be recreated.

The result preserved much of what had survived from 1938 while reinstating important elements that had disappeared over the decades — allowing the Niagara’s distinctive Art Deco and Streamline Modern character to once again take centre stage.

In early June 2022, customers returned to the Niagara Café following its extensive restoration with a gradual opening. Initially operating Monday to Friday, it began with coffee and sweets while the offering slowly expanded.

For the new owners, reopening the doors was about more than bringing a historic building back into use. They wanted the Niagara to return to its role as a gathering place for Gundagai — somewhere that served locals as well as the steady stream of travellers passing through town.

Luke spoke at the time about the café’s long history as a community hub, including stories of wedding breakfasts and First Communion breakfasts held there. That sense of everyday community life was something they wanted the Niagara to regain.

The reopening also drew attention to the café’s place within Australia’s Greek café history. Historian Leonard Janiszewski, whose work with Effy Alexakis has documented the Greek Australian café tradition, described the surviving Niagara as unique in Australia and praised the care taken with its restoration.

By June 2022, the Niagara was once again doing what it had done for generations — welcoming people through the doors, serving from behind the counter and taking its place in the everyday life of Gundagai.